Under-Cabinet Lighting Installation Cost in Southern Maryland: 2026 Price Guide

By Gray & Sons Contracting · October 12, 2026

Under-cabinet lighting installation in Southern Maryland costs $200 to $1,200 for most homeowners in 2026, with the national average landing around $500 installed for a full kitchen of LED under-cabinet lights. The total depends on the type of lighting you choose (LED strips, puck lights, light bars, or integrated panels), whether you go with a simple plug-in system or a hardwired installation with a dedicated switch and dimmer, and whether your home's existing electrical infrastructure can support the new lights without upgrades. A basic plug-in LED strip kit that you attach to the underside of your wall cabinets and plug into an existing countertop outlet runs as little as $50 to $150 as a DIY project. A professionally hardwired installation with continuous LED light bars across every cabinet run, a dimmer switch, and clean wiring concealed inside the cabinet boxes runs $500 to $1,200. Most homeowners in Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County land in the $300 to $800 range for a quality LED under-cabinet system that transforms their kitchen's functionality and appearance.

Under-cabinet lighting is one of the highest-impact, lowest-cost kitchen upgrades available to homeowners in the tri-county area. It serves two distinct purposes that no other single fixture addresses. First, it is task lighting, direct, shadow-free illumination of the countertop work surface where you chop, prep, read recipes, and handle knives. The overhead ceiling fixture or recessed lights that provide general kitchen illumination cast your own shadow onto the countertop the moment you stand at it, because your body is between the ceiling light and the work surface. Under-cabinet lights eliminate that shadow by placing the light source directly above the counter, between the bottom of the wall cabinet and the work surface. Second, it is ambient and accent lighting, a warm glow that transforms the kitchen during evenings, entertaining, and late-night trips for a glass of water, providing enough light to navigate safely without turning on the full overhead fixtures.

In Southern Maryland's active real estate markets, Waldorf, Huntingtown, California, Prince Frederick, La Plata, kitchen upgrades consistently rank among the top home improvements for both livability and resale value. Under-cabinet lighting is the rare project that delivers a visible, daily-use improvement for a fraction of the cost of a countertop replacement or cabinet refacing. For the aging population in parts of St. Mary's County, it also serves a practical safety function: brighter task lighting on work surfaces reduces the risk of kitchen accidents and supports aging in place by making the kitchen safer and more comfortable to use as vision changes with age.

This guide covers every under-cabinet lighting type, their equipment and installed costs, the difference between plug-in and hardwired systems, the specific electrical considerations that affect installations in the tri-county area's older housing stock, and how to decide between doing it yourself and hiring a professional.

Cost by Lighting Type

Under-cabinet lights come in four main configurations. Each produces a different quality of light, mounts differently, and falls into a different price range. The type you choose determines the equipment cost, the installation method, and the visual result.

LED Strip Lights: $150 to $500 Installed

LED strip lights are the most affordable and most popular under-cabinet lighting option in 2026. A strip is a thin, flexible circuit board, typically 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide and 1/8 inch thick, with surface-mounted LED chips spaced every one to two inches along its length. The strip comes on a roll and has an adhesive backing that sticks directly to the underside of the cabinet. Most strips can be cut at marked intervals (every one to two inches) to fit any cabinet length precisely.

The appeal of LED strips is their simplicity, low profile, and continuous illumination. Because the LEDs are spaced closely along the entire length of the strip, the light appears as a smooth, even glow across the full width of the countertop below, no bright spots and dark gaps like puck lights produce. The strip sits so close to the cabinet surface that it is invisible from normal standing and sitting positions, and the light appears to emanate from the cabinet itself.

Quality varies dramatically with price. A $15 LED strip kit from the hardware store and a $60 professional-grade strip look similar on the shelf, but the differences emerge immediately after installation. Cheap strips have inconsistent color temperature across the run (warm at one end, cooler at the other), visible brightness variation as voltage drops along the length, poor color rendering that makes food look unnatural, and adhesive that fails within months, leaving the strip hanging from the cabinet bottom. Professional-grade strips from brands like WAC Lighting, American Lighting, or Kichler use higher-density LED placement (60 LEDs per meter versus 30), consistent color binning across the entire run, higher CRI (color rendering index) ratings of 90 or above for accurate color appearance, and industrial-grade adhesive or mounting channels that hold permanently.

For a full kitchen with 10 to 16 linear feet of wall cabinets, a typical kitchen in a Southern Maryland colonial or ranch home, expect to spend $60 to $200 on quality LED strip materials and $90 to $300 on professional installation if you choose to have them hardwired, for a total of $150 to $500 installed.

LED Puck Lights: $200 to $600 Installed

Puck lights are small, round (or occasionally square) LED fixtures, typically 2.5 to 3 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick, that mount individually to the underside of the cabinet. They are sold in sets of three to six lights connected by thin, low-voltage wires to a single transformer, which plugs into an outlet or is hardwired to a switch.

The advantage of puck lights is their focused, directional output. Each puck produces a defined cone of bright light directly below it, which is effective for illuminating specific work zones, the cutting board area, the coffee station, the area next to the stove where you prep ingredients. The disadvantage is the flip side of that focused output: the areas between pucks are noticeably dimmer, creating a scalloped light pattern on the countertop with bright pools alternating with shadows. This pattern is less noticeable when the pucks are spaced closely (8 to 12 inches apart), but closely spaced pucks require more units and higher cost.

Puck lights are a good choice when you want to light specific areas rather than the entire countertop run, or when the cabinets are shallow and a continuous strip or bar would be visible from normal viewing angles. They also work well in display cabinets, pantries, and other applications where focused light on specific items is the goal.

For a full kitchen with eight to twelve puck lights covering the main work areas, expect to spend $80 to $200 on quality puck light sets and $120 to $400 on professional installation, for a total of $200 to $600 installed.

LED Light Bars: $250 to $800 Installed

LED light bars are rigid, linear fixtures, typically 12 to 42 inches long and 3/4 to 1.5 inches wide, that mount to the underside of the cabinet with screws or clips. Unlike flexible LED strips, light bars have a solid aluminum housing that acts as a heat sink, a built-in diffuser lens that spreads the light evenly and conceals the individual LED chips, and end-to-end connectors that allow multiple bars to be linked together for seamless coverage across long cabinet runs.

Light bars produce the best combination of light quality and appearance for most kitchens. The rigid housing and diffuser eliminate the visible LED dots that can be a drawback of strip lights when viewed from certain angles. The aluminum construction dissipates heat more effectively than a strip's flexible circuit board, which extends LED life and maintains brightness over time. The modular design, link as many bars as needed, end to end, allows clean, continuous coverage across any cabinet configuration.

The primary drawback of light bars compared to strips is their thicker profile. A light bar that is 3/4 inch thick is visible when you look up at the underside of the cabinet, while a 1/8-inch LED strip is essentially invisible. Some light bars address this with a front lip or valance that conceals the fixture from view, and some homeowners add a thin trim strip to the front edge of the cabinet bottom to hide the light bar, a minor carpentry addition that costs $50 to $150 for a full kitchen.

For a full kitchen with four to six light bars covering 10 to 16 linear feet of wall cabinets, expect to spend $160 to $480 on quality light bars and $90 to $320 on professional installation, for a total of $250 to $800 installed.

Integrated LED Panels: $400 to $1,200 Installed

Integrated LED panels are the premium under-cabinet lighting option. These are flat, thin panel fixtures designed to mount flush with the underside of the cabinet, recessed into the cabinet bottom in some designs, or surface-mounted with a profile so thin (1/4 to 1/2 inch) that they appear built-in. The entire panel surface emits light, producing the most uniform, shadow-free illumination of any under-cabinet option.

Integrated panels are most commonly installed during kitchen renovations or new construction because the recessed versions require modification to the cabinet bottom (a routed channel or a cutout), and the wiring is designed to be fully concealed within the cabinet box. They are the standard choice in high-end custom kitchens where the cabinetry, lighting, and countertops are designed as a unified system.

For homeowners in the tri-county area undertaking a full kitchen remodel, new cabinets, countertops, and backsplash, integrated LED panels are worth the premium because the cabinetmaker can incorporate the mounting provisions during cabinet fabrication, and the electrician can run the wiring inside the cabinets before the backsplash is installed. Adding integrated panels to an existing kitchen is more involved and more expensive because the cabinets may need to be modified and the wiring must be routed without disturbing the existing backsplash.

For a full kitchen with integrated LED panels, expect to spend $320 to $800 on the panels themselves and $80 to $400 on professional installation, for a total of $400 to $1,200 installed.

Cost by Installation Method

How the lights are powered and controlled has as much impact on the total cost as the fixtures themselves. The three installation methods, plug-in, hardwired, and battery, differ significantly in cost, complexity, and the quality of the finished result.

Plug-In Installation: $0 to $50 Labor

A plug-in under-cabinet lighting system uses a low-voltage transformer (a small box similar to a laptop charger) that plugs into a standard wall outlet. The transformer converts 120V household current to 12V or 24V DC power, which runs through a thin wire to the LED strips, puck lights, or light bars mounted under the cabinets. The system turns on and off with a small inline switch on the wire, a switch on the transformer, or a wireless remote.

The advantage of plug-in systems is their simplicity. No electrical work, no permits, no electrician. You mount the lights, route the wire along the back edge of the cabinet underside (secured with small clips), plug the transformer into an outlet behind or below the cabinets, and the job is done. Most plug-in installations take 30 minutes to two hours depending on the number of cabinet sections and the wire routing.

The disadvantage is the visible cord and transformer, which some homeowners find unacceptable in a finished kitchen. The transformer typically sits on the countertop near an outlet or hangs from the outlet behind a small appliance, and the wire, however neatly routed, is visible at some points along its path. Some kitchens have outlets inside the cabinets or behind the refrigerator that can hide the transformer, but many do not.

A plug-in system is the right choice for homeowners who want better task lighting now, at minimal cost, without committing to electrical work. It is also the right choice for renters who cannot modify the wiring. The light quality from a high-quality plug-in LED strip or light bar system is identical to a hardwired system, the only difference is how the power gets to the lights.

Hardwired Installation: $200 to $600 Electrician Labor

A hardwired under-cabinet lighting system connects directly to the home's electrical wiring, controlled by a wall switch and optional dimmer, with no visible cords, plugs, or transformers. The wiring runs inside the wall, through the cabinet boxes, and to each light fixture. From the outside, the only visible components are the lights themselves and the wall switch, everything else is concealed.

This is the professional standard for permanent under-cabinet lighting and the method that adds the most value to the kitchen. The lights operate from a wall switch just like the overhead kitchen lights, which means they are always accessible (no reaching for a remote or inline switch), they can be included in lighting scenes with smart switches, and they integrate seamlessly with the kitchen's overall electrical system.

Hardwired installation requires a licensed electrician and typically involves one or more of the following tasks:

• Running 14/2 or 12/2 Romex from an existing circuit or a new circuit to the first light location
• Installing a wall switch (and optionally a dimmer) at a convenient location
• Running low-voltage wire from a hardwired transformer (mounted inside a cabinet) to each fixture
• Connecting multiple fixtures in a daisy-chain or home-run configuration
• Concealing all wiring inside cabinet boxes, through the wall, and behind the backsplash

The electrician labor for a full kitchen hardwired installation runs $200 to $600, depending on the number of cabinet sections, the complexity of the wire routing, whether a new circuit is needed, and whether the work involves opening and patching drywall. In kitchens where the backsplash has not been installed yet (during a remodel), the wiring can run behind where the backsplash will go, which simplifies the job significantly.

Additional Electrical Costs

Beyond the basic installation labor, several electrical add-ons are common in under-cabinet lighting projects.

The dimmer switch is the most important add-on. Under-cabinet lights without a dimmer are either fully on or fully off, which limits their usefulness. At full brightness, they provide excellent task lighting for food preparation. But at 10 to 20 percent brightness through a dimmer, they become a soft ambient glow that is perfect for evening entertaining, late-night kitchen visits, and early mornings when full overhead lighting is too harsh. The dimmer transforms under-cabinet lights from a single-purpose task fixture into a versatile, all-day lighting layer. At $50 to $150 installed, it is the highest-value addition to any under-cabinet lighting project.

Equipment Cost vs. Installed Cost Breakdown

The total cost of an under-cabinet lighting project breaks down into equipment (the lights, transformer, wiring, and switch) and labor (the electrician's time for a hardwired installation, or your own time for a plug-in system).

For a typical hardwired LED light bar installation in a Southern Maryland kitchen, four to six light bars covering 12 linear feet of wall cabinets, a hardwired transformer inside a cabinet, a dimmer switch on the wall, and all wiring concealed, the breakdown looks like this:

This represents the midrange of under-cabinet lighting projects, a professional result with high-quality light bars, full dimmer control, and no visible wiring or transformers.

Energy Costs and Long-Term Savings

One of the advantages of modern LED under-cabinet lighting is its extremely low energy consumption. A full kitchen of LED under-cabinet lights, 10 to 16 linear feet of LED strips or four to six light bars, draws approximately 20 to 60 watts total, depending on the brightness level and the specific fixtures.

At the Southern Maryland Electric Cooperative (SMECO) residential rate of approximately $0.13 to $0.15 per kWh, a full kitchen of LED under-cabinet lights costs $5 to $15 per year in electricity, roughly the same as a single 60-watt incandescent bulb running the same hours. Energy cost is effectively a non-factor in the decision to install under-cabinet lighting. Even if you leave them on for 10 hours a day, 365 days a year, the electricity cost is negligible.

This is a meaningful consideration for homeowners who remember the halogen and xenon under-cabinet lights that were common in the 2000s. Those older technologies consumed 20 to 50 watts per fixture, generated significant heat (enough to warm the countertop surface below and affect heat-sensitive items stored in the cabinet above), and cost three to five times more to operate than today's LED equivalents. If your Southern Maryland home still has halogen or xenon under-cabinet lights, replacing them with LED is one of the simplest, most cost-effective electrical upgrades you can make, the energy savings alone pay for the new LED fixtures within one to three years.

Regional Considerations for Southern Maryland

Older Home Electrical Systems in the Tri-County Area

Many homes in the established neighborhoods of the tri-county area, the 1960s through 1990s builds in La Plata, Hughesville, Charlotte Hall, Mechanicsville, Leonardtown, and Prince Frederick, were built with electrical systems that met the code of their era but may need attention before adding a hardwired under-cabinet lighting installation.

Kitchen outlet placement. In homes built before the mid-1990s, countertop outlets are often fewer and farther apart than in modern kitchens. The current code requires GFCI-protected outlets every four feet along the countertop, but older kitchens may have only two or three outlets on the entire countertop run. If you are planning a plug-in under-cabinet lighting system, you may not have a conveniently located outlet near the lights. Adding an under-cabinet outlet specifically for the lighting transformer costs $150 to $300 and is often the most practical solution, it keeps the transformer and cord concealed inside the cabinet.

Circuit capacity. Older kitchens may have fewer circuits serving the countertop outlets, and those circuits may already be loaded with the microwave, coffee maker, toaster, and other countertop appliances. LED under-cabinet lights draw so little power (20 to 60 watts for a full kitchen) that they will not overload even a moderately loaded circuit. However, an electrician may recommend a dedicated lighting circuit for the under-cabinet system to keep it on a separate switch and to avoid the lights flickering when a high-draw appliance (like a microwave) cycles on. A new circuit from the panel costs $200 to $500.

Aluminum wiring. Homes built in the late 1960s and early 1970s in the tri-county area may have aluminum branch circuit wiring, which requires special connectors and techniques when tying into it with new copper wiring. An electrician experienced with aluminum wiring can handle this safely, but it adds time and cost to the project. If your electrician discovers aluminum wiring in the kitchen circuit, ensure they use approved aluminum-to-copper connectors (such as AlumiConn connectors or similar rated products) rather than standard wire nuts.

Kitchen Renovation Trends in the Active Real Estate Markets

Kitchen upgrades are among the most popular home improvement projects in Southern Maryland's active real estate markets, and under-cabinet lighting is increasingly standard in renovated kitchens. In Waldorf, where the housing market turns over steadily with families moving in and out of the community's large inventory of colonials and townhouses, a kitchen with under-cabinet lighting stands out from the dozens of similar listings without it. In Huntingtown, where homeowners tend to stay longer and invest more in their properties, under-cabinet lighting is part of the comprehensive kitchen upgrades, new countertops, refaced cabinets, tile backsplash, and task lighting, that homeowners undertake to modernize their 1990s and 2000s kitchens. In California, where military families rotating through NAS Patuxent River make up a significant share of the rental and purchase market, under-cabinet lighting is a visible, modern upgrade that appeals to buyers accustomed to the well-appointed kitchens in base housing and newer apartments.

Under-cabinet lighting is one of the few kitchen upgrades that costs less than $1,000 and is immediately visible in listing photos. When a real estate photographer takes the standard kitchen shot from the doorway or the dining area, under-cabinet lights create a warm, professional glow along the countertops that photographs dramatically better than a kitchen lit only by overhead fixtures. For homeowners in Prince Frederick, La Plata, or Dunkirk preparing to list their home, under-cabinet lighting is a small investment with outsized visual impact.

Aging in Place: Task Lighting for Safety and Comfort

St. Mary's County and parts of Calvert County have aging demographics, with a growing population of homeowners over 60 who intend to remain in their homes long-term. For these homeowners, under-cabinet lighting is not a cosmetic upgrade, it is a functional safety improvement.

As vision changes with age, the ability to see clearly under overhead lighting decreases. Contrast sensitivity diminishes, glare sensitivity increases, and more light is needed on the task surface to see fine details, the markings on a measuring cup, the color of meat being prepared, the text of a recipe, the edge of a knife blade. Under-cabinet task lighting places bright, glare-free illumination directly on the countertop surface at close range, exactly where aging eyes need it most. The difference between working under overhead lights alone and working with under-cabinet task lighting is immediately noticeable for anyone over 50, and it becomes more significant with each passing decade.

For homeowners in Leonardtown, Solomons, Lexington Park, and the quieter communities of St. Mary's County who are planning to age in place, under-cabinet lighting is one of the simplest and most affordable modifications that directly improves daily safety and comfort in the kitchen. Combined with lever-style faucet handles, D-shaped cabinet pulls, and non-slip flooring, it is part of the practical kitchen accessibility toolkit that supports independent living.

Energy Efficiency with SMECO Rates

Southern Maryland is served by the Southern Maryland Electric Cooperative (SMECO), and residential electricity rates in the tri-county area fluctuate with seasonal demand and supply costs. LED under-cabinet lighting is the most energy-efficient option available, drawing 70 to 85 percent less power than the halogen and xenon under-cabinet systems that were standard in kitchens built or remodeled in the late 1990s and 2000s.

For homeowners who still have halogen puck lights under their cabinets, a common fixture in Waldorf, Dunkirk, and Prince Frederick kitchens remodeled between 1998 and 2010, replacing them with LED equivalents reduces the under-cabinet lighting energy consumption from roughly 150 to 300 watts (for a typical set of six 25-to-50-watt halogen pucks) to 20 to 50 watts (for LED replacements). At SMECO rates, the annual savings are modest in dollar terms ($25 to $50 per year), but the LED upgrade also eliminates the heat problem, halogen pucks generate enough heat to discolor the underside of the cabinet, warm the countertop surface, and make the cabinet interior above the light uncomfortably warm for stored items. The LED replacement runs cool, lasts 25,000 to 50,000 hours (versus 2,000 to 5,000 hours for halogen), and produces better light quality.

DIY vs. Professional Installation

Under-cabinet lighting is one of the few electrical projects where a DIY approach can produce professional results, but only for certain installation types. The decision depends on the installation method and your comfort with basic wiring.

When DIY Makes Sense

A plug-in LED strip or light bar system is an excellent DIY project for homeowners who want better task lighting without the cost or commitment of a hardwired installation. The materials cost $50 to $200 for a full kitchen, the installation requires no tools beyond a tape measure, scissors (for cutting strips to length), and possibly a drill (for mounting light bars with screws). No electrical knowledge is required because the system plugs into a standard outlet, and the LED fixtures operate on safe, low-voltage DC power.

The key to a clean-looking DIY installation is wire management. Route the thin low-voltage wire along the back edge of the cabinet underside, at the junction where the cabinet bottom meets the back panel, using small adhesive-backed wire clips every 6 to 8 inches. Run the wire down the inside of the cabinet at the hinge side (less visible when the door is open), and route it behind the cabinet to the nearest outlet. Use a thin, flat plug-in transformer that sits flat against the wall behind the outlet, rather than a bulky block transformer that sticks out and prevents the adjacent outlet from being used.

When to Hire a Professional

A hardwired installation should always be done by a licensed electrician. The work involves connecting to 120V household wiring, which carries serious shock and fire risk if done incorrectly. Beyond the safety issue, a hardwired installation by a professional produces a result that looks built-in rather than added on, no visible cords, no transformer sitting on the countertop, no remote control to lose. The lights operate from a wall switch, just like the overhead lights, and a dimmer gives you full control over the brightness.

Hire a professional for any of these scenarios:

• You want the lights controlled by a wall switch and dimmer
• You want no visible cords, plugs, or transformers anywhere in the kitchen
• Your kitchen lacks a conveniently located outlet for a plug-in system
• You are installing under-cabinet lights as part of a larger kitchen remodel
• Your home has older wiring that needs evaluation before adding any electrical load
• You want the installation to add value to the home for resale

Choosing the Right Color Temperature

The color temperature of your under-cabinet lights, measured in Kelvin (K), affects how the kitchen looks and feels when the lights are on. The wrong color temperature can make a beautiful kitchen look clinical, dingy, or mismatched.

For most Southern Maryland kitchens, 3000K is the right choice. It is warm enough to feel inviting and complement the natural wood, earth-toned granite, and warm paint colors common in tri-county homes, but bright and clean enough to function effectively as task lighting for food preparation. If your kitchen has very warm finishes, honey oak cabinets, dark granite, warm beige walls, consider 2700K for a seamless warm-light effect. If your kitchen has cool-toned finishes, white shaker cabinets, gray quartz countertops, stainless steel accents, 3500K provides a more natural match.

Match the under-cabinet color temperature to your overhead lights. If your recessed lights or ceiling fixtures are 3000K, your under-cabinet lights should be 3000K as well. Mixing color temperatures, warm under-cabinet lights with cool overhead lights, or vice versa, creates a visually jarring effect that is especially noticeable when both are on simultaneously. If you are unsure what color temperature your existing kitchen lights are, your electrician can check the bulbs or fixtures during the under-cabinet installation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to install under-cabinet lighting in Southern Maryland? Most homeowners in Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County pay $200 to $1,200 for under-cabinet lighting installation in 2026, with the average around $500 for a professionally installed LED system covering a full kitchen. A plug-in LED strip kit as a DIY project runs $50 to $200. A hardwired LED light bar system with a dimmer switch runs $500 to $900. Integrated LED panels in a high-end kitchen run $400 to $1,200. The biggest cost variables are the fixture type, the installation method (plug-in vs. hardwired), and whether your kitchen needs new outlets or circuits.

Are LED strip lights or puck lights better for under-cabinet lighting? LED strip lights are generally better for most kitchens because they produce continuous, even illumination across the entire countertop with no dark spots between fixtures. Puck lights create focused pools of light with dimmer areas between each puck, which can be an advantage for highlighting specific work zones but produces a less uniform overall appearance. LED light bars offer the best of both, continuous illumination like strips, but with a rigid housing and diffuser that produces a cleaner light and a more professional appearance. For most Southern Maryland kitchens, LED light bars or high-quality LED strips are the recommended choice.

Can I install under-cabinet lighting myself? Yes, if you choose a plug-in system. Plug-in LED strips, puck lights, and light bars are designed for DIY installation and require no electrical knowledge. You mount the lights with adhesive or screws, route the low-voltage wire to a nearby outlet, and plug in the transformer. The entire project takes one to three hours. Hardwired installations that connect to the home's 120V wiring must be done by a licensed electrician for safety and code compliance.

Do under-cabinet lights add value to a home? Under-cabinet lighting does not add measurable dollar-for-dollar value the way a full kitchen remodel does, but it contributes to the overall impression of a well-maintained, updated kitchen, and in real estate, impressions drive offers. Hardwired under-cabinet lighting is a permanent upgrade that real estate agents in the tri-county area consistently identify as a positive feature in kitchen presentations. Plug-in systems, which can be removed by the seller or replaced by the buyer, carry less resale impact. For the best return, install a hardwired system as part of a broader kitchen refresh.

How long do LED under-cabinet lights last? Quality LED under-cabinet lights are rated for 25,000 to 50,000 hours of operation. At a typical usage rate of four to five hours per day, that translates to approximately 14 to 27 years before the LEDs dim to 70 percent of their original brightness (the standard end-of-life benchmark for LED products). In practical terms, LED under-cabinet lights installed today will outlast the kitchen itself, you will remodel the kitchen before the lights burn out.

Do under-cabinet lights use a lot of electricity? No. A full kitchen of LED under-cabinet lights draws 20 to 60 watts total, less than a single old-style incandescent bulb. At SMECO residential rates, the annual electricity cost is $5 to $15 depending on how many hours per day the lights are on. Energy cost is effectively a non-factor in the decision to install under-cabinet lighting.

Should under-cabinet lights be hardwired or plug-in? Hardwired is the better choice for a permanent installation in a home you own. It produces a clean, finished appearance with no visible cords, operates from a wall switch with a dimmer, and adds value to the home. Plug-in is the better choice for renters, for homeowners who want a quick and affordable upgrade without electrical work, or as a test run before committing to a hardwired system. The light quality is the same, the difference is in appearance, convenience, and permanence.

What is the best placement for under-cabinet lights? Mount the lights toward the front edge of the cabinet bottom, approximately two-thirds of the way from the back wall to the front of the cabinet. This positions the light directly above the countertop work surface where you need it, rather than against the wall where it illuminates the backsplash but leaves the front of the counter in shadow. If the light fixture is visible from standing or seated positions, move it back slightly or add a thin trim strip to the front lip of the cabinet to conceal it.

Can under-cabinet lighting be added without damaging the cabinets? Yes. LED strip lights with adhesive backing attach without any holes, screws, or permanent modifications to the cabinet. Puck lights and light bars typically use small screws (two per fixture) that create minor holes in the cabinet bottom, if removed, the holes can be filled with wood putty and touched up with paint. Plug-in systems with adhesive mounting are completely non-destructive and can be removed cleanly. Hardwired systems may require small holes for wiring access inside the cabinet, but these are concealed from view.

How do I dim under-cabinet lights? For hardwired systems, a dimmer switch installed in the wall controls the brightness, the same way you would dim recessed lights or overhead fixtures. The dimmer must be LED-compatible; older incandescent dimmers can cause LED lights to flicker or buzz. For plug-in systems, look for kits that include a remote control with dimming capability, or purchase a plug-in LED dimmer module (available for $15 to $30) that sits between the transformer and the outlet. Smart dimmer options are available for both hardwired and plug-in systems, allowing control from a phone app or voice assistant.

Ready to upgrade your kitchen with under-cabinet lighting? Gray & Sons Contracting installs under-cabinet lighting systems throughout Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County, from LED strip kits in Waldorf townhouse kitchens and hardwired light bars in Huntingtown colonials to integrated panel systems in Solomons waterfront home remodels. Whether you want a simple, affordable LED strip installation or a full hardwired system with dimmer controls and concealed wiring, we help you choose the right fixtures for your kitchen layout, cabinet style, and budget, and we install them with clean, code-compliant electrical work that looks built-in from day one. Serving Waldorf, La Plata, Prince Frederick, Dunkirk, Huntingtown, Solomons, Lexington Park, California, Leonardtown, Mechanicsville, Charlotte Hall, Hughesville, and all of Southern Maryland. Get a Free Estimate