Stucco Repair Cost in Southern Maryland: 2026 Price Guide

By Gray & Sons Contracting · October 21, 2026

Stucco repair in Southern Maryland costs $500 to $5,000 for most residential projects in 2026, with the national average for a professional stucco repair landing around $2,200. The full range runs from $200 to $500 for patching a single hairline crack or small chip where the stucco has separated from the lath or substrate, up to $8,000 to $15,000 or more for extensive remediation that involves removing large sections of failed stucco, repairing underlying water damage to sheathing and framing, installing new moisture barrier and lath, and applying a complete three-coat stucco system across one or more wall faces. At the low end, filling a single crack less than 1/8 inch wide with elastomeric caulk or surface patching compound, cleaning the crack, applying the filler, texturing the surface to match, and spot-priming, costs $200 to $400 in materials and labor, with the technician spending 30 to 60 minutes on-site. At the high end, stripping and re-stuccoing an entire wall face on a two-story colonial, removing the old stucco down to the sheathing, replacing damaged building paper or housewrap, installing new galvanized metal lath, and applying scratch coat, brown coat, and finish coat with color-matched texture, can require two to four days of labor, $1,500 to $3,000 in materials, and a total investment of $6,000 to $12,000 or more depending on wall area, access difficulty, and the extent of underlying damage.

Late October is a critical time to address stucco damage in Southern Maryland. With the first hard freeze typically arriving between late November and mid-December in the Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County area, any cracks, chips, or delaminated sections in your stucco are about to become significantly worse. Water enters through even hairline cracks in the stucco surface, saturates the wall cavity behind the stucco, and then freezes as overnight temperatures drop below 32 degrees. That freeze event expands the water by roughly 9 percent, widening the crack, breaking the bond between stucco and lath, and potentially damaging the sheathing and framing behind the wall. Over the course of a Southern Maryland winter with 40 to 60 freeze-thaw cycles, a $300 hairline crack repair in October becomes a $3,000 wall section replacement by spring. The window for stucco repair is closing: most stucco products require application and curing temperatures above 40 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 48 to 72 hours after application, and overnight temperatures in the tri-county area begin falling below that threshold consistently by mid-to-late November.

This guide covers the complete cost picture for stucco repair in Southern Maryland: pricing by repair type and damage severity, material and labor cost analysis, regional factors specific to the tri-county area, DIY versus professional repair, real-world project scenarios with itemized costs, signs your stucco needs attention, and the questions we hear most from homeowners across Waldorf, Prince Frederick, Leonardtown, and the surrounding communities.

Understanding Stucco Systems and Failure Modes

Stucco is a cement-based exterior cladding applied in layers over a wire mesh (metal lath) that is fastened to the home's structural sheathing. A traditional three-coat stucco system consists of the scratch coat (the first layer, approximately 3/8 inch thick, applied directly to the lath and scored with horizontal lines to provide a mechanical bond for the next layer), the brown coat (the second layer, approximately 3/8 inch thick, applied over the cured scratch coat and leveled to create a flat, uniform surface), and the finish coat (the final layer, approximately 1/8 inch thick, which provides the visible texture and color). The total thickness of a properly applied three-coat system is approximately 7/8 inch. Some homes, particularly those built after 2000, may have a one-coat stucco system (also called synthetic stucco or modified stucco), which uses a single layer of fiber-reinforced polymer-modified cement approximately 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick applied over foam insulation board. One-coat systems are thinner, lighter, and more flexible than traditional stucco, but they have different repair requirements and failure characteristics.

Behind the stucco itself, a properly constructed wall includes a moisture barrier (building paper, housewrap, or a fluid-applied membrane) between the sheathing and the lath. This moisture barrier is the critical water management layer, it catches any water that penetrates through the stucco and directs it down and out through weep screeds at the bottom of the wall. When the moisture barrier fails, is improperly installed, or is absent entirely, water that enters through stucco cracks can reach the wood sheathing and framing, causing rot, mold, and structural damage that is invisible from the exterior until the problem becomes severe.

Common Stucco Failure Modes

Understanding what went wrong is essential for pricing the repair correctly, because the repair approach (and cost) depends entirely on the failure mode and the extent of damage behind the visible surface.

Cost by Repair Type

The repair approach, and therefore the cost, scales with the severity and extent of the damage. A simple surface crack is a fundamentally different project from a section of delaminated stucco with water damage behind it.

Cost per Square Foot

For larger projects, stucco repair is typically priced per square foot. The per-square-foot rate varies with the repair approach, access difficulty, and whether the work includes substrate repair.

Equipment vs. Installed Cost Breakdown

Here is a detailed breakdown of every cost component in a professional stucco repair project.

Labor: 60% to 75% of Total Project Cost

Labor dominates stucco repair costs because the work requires skilled craftsmanship that cannot be rushed. A traditional three-coat stucco application requires waiting 24 to 48 hours between each coat for proper curing, meaning a section replacement that involves three coats requires a minimum of three site visits over five to seven days, even if the actual application time for each coat is only a few hours. The scratch coat must cure and harden before the brown coat is applied (applying the brown coat to an uncured scratch coat causes delamination), and the brown coat must cure before the finish coat is applied (applying the finish coat too soon causes cracking, color inconsistency, and poor adhesion). Each coat also requires surface preparation, dampening the previous coat, checking for proper curing, and ensuring correct temperature and humidity conditions, that adds to the on-site labor time.

Texture matching is the most skill-intensive aspect of stucco repair. The finish coat texture on the existing stucco, whether it is a smooth trowel finish, a sand finish, a dash (roughcast) texture, a lace texture, a skip-trowel texture, or a custom pattern, must be replicated precisely on the repaired section. An experienced stucco mason can visually match most common textures within a few test applications, but unusual or aged textures may require multiple attempts and custom technique. Color matching adds another layer of complexity: even when the same pigment formula is used, new stucco is brighter and cleaner than weathered stucco that has been exposed to UV, rain, and pollution for years. Professional stucco repair typically includes either a full-wall repaint to blend the repair section with the surrounding area, or custom pigment adjustment to approximate the weathered color of the existing stucco, both of which add to the project cost but are essential for an invisible repair.

Regional Factors for Southern Maryland

Several factors specific to the Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County area affect stucco repair needs, material selection, and the cost of maintaining stucco-clad homes.

Climate Stress on Stucco

Southern Maryland's climate is moderately challenging for stucco systems. The combination of high summer humidity (70 to 85 percent average relative humidity from June through September), significant annual rainfall (42 to 48 inches), temperature extremes ranging from winter lows in the 20s to summer highs in the mid-90s, and 40 to 60 freeze-thaw cycles per winter creates conditions that stress stucco bonds and accelerate crack development.

The freeze-thaw cycle is the single greatest threat to stucco in the tri-county area. Water that enters through even a hairline crack freezes overnight, expanding by approximately 9 percent. That expansion forces the crack wider and can break the bond between the stucco and the lath or between individual stucco coats. When the ice melts the following day, the now-wider crack admits more water, setting up a progressive cycle of damage that accelerates through the winter. A crack that was barely visible in September can become a 1/4-inch gap with spalling edges by March, and if water has reached the wood sheathing behind the moisture barrier, the repair scope (and cost) increases dramatically.

High humidity also affects stucco by promoting efflorescence, the migration of soluble salts to the stucco surface as moisture moves through the wall assembly. Efflorescence appears as white, powdery deposits on the stucco surface and, while it is not structurally damaging by itself, it is an indicator of moisture movement through the stucco that can signal underlying water management problems.

Waterfront and Salt Air Exposure

Homes along the Chesapeake Bay and Patuxent River corridors, including Solomons, Lusby, Chesapeake Beach, North Beach, Drum Point, St. Inigoes, Ridge, Scotland, and Piney Point, face accelerated stucco deterioration from airborne salt. Salt crystallization within the pore structure of cementitious stucco creates internal stresses that cause surface spalling, scaling, and loss of aggregate over time. The effect is most pronounced on windward walls facing the water, where salt spray deposits are highest.

Stucco repairs on waterfront homes in the tri-county area should use salt-resistant mix designs (lower water-to-cement ratios, integral waterproofing admixtures, or acrylic-modified finish coats) and should include a high-quality elastomeric or siloxane sealer applied to the finished surface. The sealer adds $0.50 to $1.50 per square foot to the repair cost but significantly extends the life of the repair in a salt-air environment, a worthwhile investment when the alternative is re-repairing the same section in three to five years instead of ten to fifteen.

Housing Stock with Stucco

While stucco is not the dominant siding material in Southern Maryland, vinyl siding, fiber cement (HardiePlank), brick, and wood siding are far more common, it appears on a notable segment of the housing stock. Stucco-clad homes in the tri-county area generally fall into several categories: older masonry homes (1940s through 1970s) in Leonardtown, Prince Frederick, La Plata, and Indian Head where stucco was applied directly over concrete block or brick; custom-built homes from the 1990s through present in Huntingtown, Dunkirk, and the upscale communities near Chesapeake Beach where stucco was chosen for its Mediterranean or contemporary aesthetic; Dryvit or EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System) homes built in the 1990s and early 2000s in planned communities in Waldorf, California (MD), and Lexington Park; and partial stucco applications (stucco on the front facade with vinyl or fiber cement on the sides and rear) common in newer subdivisions throughout the area.

EIFS homes deserve special mention because the early barrier-style EIFS systems installed in the 1990s were prone to catastrophic moisture failure. These systems lacked drainage planes and weep details, allowing water that penetrated through cracks or around windows to become trapped behind the foam insulation board, causing extensive rot in the sheathing and framing that was completely invisible from the exterior. If your home was built between 1990 and 2005 with a foam-backed stucco system, and you have never had a moisture inspection, a professional assessment before repairing any visible cracking is strongly recommended. Repairing surface cracks on an EIFS home without addressing the moisture problem behind it is the most expensive mistake a homeowner can make, because the moisture continues to damage the structure while the fresh repair conceals the evidence.

Local Labor Market

Skilled stucco masons are relatively scarce in the Southern Maryland labor market compared to the Washington, D.C., and Northern Virginia metro area where stucco is far more common. The tri-county area has fewer dedicated stucco contractors, and projects often require bringing in specialists from the greater D.C., Annapolis, or Fredericksburg areas, which can add travel charges of $50 to $200 depending on the project size and distance. This scarcity also means longer lead times for scheduling stucco repair: three to six weeks is typical for a non-emergency project, compared to one to two weeks for more common trades like carpentry, painting, or general handyman work. Homeowners who discover stucco damage in October should schedule repairs promptly to ensure the work can be completed before temperatures drop below the minimum curing threshold in late November.

DIY vs. Professional Stucco Repair

Stucco repair is significantly more skill-intensive than many other exterior maintenance tasks. While small cosmetic patches are within the capability of a handy homeowner, anything involving structural damage, moisture infiltration, or large-area re-stucco is firmly in professional territory.

When DIY Is a Reasonable Option

DIY materials cost $8 to $25 for crack filler and small patches and $30 to $80 for a bucket of pre-mixed stucco patch compound that covers 15 to 25 square feet. The most common DIY mistakes are: using the wrong product (interior spackling or drywall compound instead of exterior stucco patch, these products are not waterproof and will fail within months of exterior exposure), failing to dampen the existing stucco before applying the patch (dry stucco wicks the water out of the fresh patch too quickly, causing poor adhesion and cracking), applying the patch too thick in a single coat (patches thicker than 3/8 inch should be applied in multiple layers with curing time between), and failing to match the surrounding texture (a smooth patch on a textured wall is conspicuous and can affect resale appeal).

When Professional Repair Is the Clear Choice

Professional stucco repair at $500 to $5,000 for most projects delivers correct diagnosis of the failure mode and its root cause, assessment of substrate condition behind the visible damage, proper material selection for the specific repair conditions, multi-coat application with appropriate curing intervals, professional texture and color matching, and warranty coverage on workmanship, typically one to two years for the repair, with the stucco material itself lasting 20 to 50 years when properly applied and maintained.

Sample Project Scenarios

These scenarios represent common stucco repair projects in the tri-county area. All costs reflect 2026 pricing for materials and professional installation.

Scenario 1: Hairline Crack Repair on a Rancher in Waldorf, $425

A homeowner in a 2001-built rancher in Waldorf notices three hairline cracks in the stucco around the front facade, two running vertically from the corners of the garage door header and one diagonal crack near the living room picture window. The cracks are all less than 1/16 inch wide and show no signs of active movement. The stucco on either side of the cracks sounds solid when tapped, no hollow spots or delamination. This is classic shrinkage and settling cracking that is cosmetic in nature and does not indicate structural problems.

The technician completes the work in approximately 90 minutes. Each crack is opened slightly with a cold chisel or grinder to create a V-groove that accepts the filler, cleaned with compressed air, dampened, filled with elastomeric crack filler, and textured to match the surrounding finish using a sponge float and a dash of fresh stucco mix. The filled cracks are primed with exterior masonry primer for paintability. The repairs are invisible from more than five feet away and will flex with seasonal movement rather than re-cracking. The homeowner can paint over the repairs after 48 hours of curing if a full-facade color match is desired.

Scenario 2: Medium Patch Repair on a Colonial in Huntingtown, $1,850

A homeowner in a 2004-built two-story colonial in Huntingtown has a section of delaminated stucco on the north-facing second-story wall, approximately 15 square feet, where the stucco sounds hollow when tapped and has begun to bulge outward from the wall. Two small chunks have already fallen off, revealing rusted metal lath underneath. The cause is water infiltration from a failed kick-out flashing at the roof-to-wall intersection above the damaged section, water has been running down behind the stucco for several years, rusting the lath and breaking the bond between the scratch coat and the brown coat. The sheathing behind the lath appears dry and sound when probed through the gap where the stucco has fallen away.

The project requires three site visits over five days: day one for removal, lath replacement, flashing repair, and scratch coat application; day three for brown coat application after the scratch coat has cured 48 hours; and day five for finish coat, texture, and color matching. The scaffolding is set up on day one and left in place through day five. The key element of this repair is fixing the kick-out flashing that caused the problem in the first place, without addressing the root cause, the new stucco would begin failing within two to three years as water resumed flowing behind the wall. The homeowner receives a repair that matches the existing stucco in texture and color and is backed by the root-cause fix that prevents recurrence.

Scenario 3: Large Section Replacement with Water Damage on a Cape Cod in Prince Frederick, $4,800

A homeowner in a 1997-built Cape Cod in Prince Frederick discovers significant stucco damage on the front facade surrounding two first-floor windows, approximately 40 square feet of stucco is cracked, hollow-sounding, and stained with dark moisture marks. Investigation reveals that the windows were improperly flashed when installed, no sill pan, no head flashing, and the housewrap was not integrated with the window flanges, allowing water to run behind the stucco and into the wall cavity for years. Behind the stucco, the lath is heavily rusted, the building paper is deteriorated, the OSB sheathing is swollen and delaminated in several areas totaling approximately 20 square feet, and one window sill framing member shows soft rot. No mold is visible, but the interior of the wall smells musty.

This project takes four to five site visits over eight to ten days. The most critical work is invisible in the finished product: replacing the rotted sheathing and framing, treating the adjacent wood with borate preservative to prevent future rot, installing a proper moisture management system with housewrap, flashing tape, and integrated window flashing, the components that were missing or improperly installed in the original construction. The stucco is the visible exterior finish, but the moisture barrier behind it is what will prevent the problem from recurring. The homeowner should plan for a full-facade repaint within the year to ensure a seamless color match between the repaired section and the 29-year-old stucco on the rest of the front wall.

Scenario 4: EIFS Moisture Investigation and Targeted Repair in Lexington Park, $3,200

A homeowner in a 1998-built two-story home in Lexington Park has an EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System) facade on the front of the home with vinyl siding on the sides and rear. The EIFS has several hairline cracks, two areas of surface chipping, and dark staining beneath the second-floor window sills, classic warning signs of moisture problems in a barrier-style EIFS system. Before any cosmetic repair, the homeowner wisely requests a moisture investigation to determine whether water has penetrated behind the EIFS and damaged the sheathing.

The moisture testing reveals that the sheathing behind the EIFS is dry, elevated readings are limited to the areas immediately below the window sills, where water has been entering at the EIFS-to-window interface and draining downward within the EIFS panel before being absorbed by the base coat and foam, but has not yet reached the sheathing. This is the best possible outcome for a 1998 barrier EIFS system and means that targeted repair can prevent the problem from progressing to sheathing damage. The repair focuses on the root cause: adding back-dam flashing at the window sills, improving the sealant joint at the window-to-EIFS interface, creating a controlled drainage path at the EIFS base, sealing all surface cracks, patching the chipped areas, and applying a full elastomeric coating to the entire front facade that seals the surface against future moisture entry while remaining vapor-permeable to allow any trapped moisture to escape outward. The elastomeric coating is the key upgrade, it bridges hairline cracks, repels water, and adds years of protection to a system that is now 28 years old and approaching the end of its uncoated service life.

Signs Your Stucco Needs Repair

Catching stucco damage early is the single most effective way to keep repair costs manageable. A $300 crack repair in October prevents a $3,000 section replacement in spring. Walk the exterior of your home with these indicators in mind.

Visible cracks of any width. All stucco develops some hairline cracking over time, this is normal and usually cosmetic. But cracks wider than 1/16 inch, cracks that show stair-step patterns (following the mortar joints of the block or brick behind the stucco), cracks that radiate from window and door corners, and cracks that grow visibly wider over weeks or months are all signs that the stucco has exceeded its ability to accommodate movement and is now admitting water. Every crack is a potential water entry point, and every water entry point is a future repair.

Hollow sound when tapped. Walk along the stucco wall and tap firmly with your knuckles or a rubber mallet every 12 to 18 inches. Sound stucco produces a solid thud. Stucco that has delaminated from the lath or between coats produces a distinctly hollow, drum-like sound. Hollow areas indicate that the stucco has lost its bond and is being held in place only by the surrounding adhered stucco and gravity, it will eventually fall off, and water is almost certainly getting behind it in the meantime.

Staining, discoloration, or efflorescence. Dark stains beneath windows, along the foundation line, or in specific sections of the wall indicate water is moving through or behind the stucco. White, powdery deposits (efflorescence) indicate mineral salts being carried to the surface by moisture migration. Green or black organic growth (algae or mold) indicates chronic moisture exposure. All of these are symptoms of a water management problem that the stucco alone cannot solve, the stucco repair must be accompanied by fixing the water source.

Soft or crumbly texture. Press your thumb firmly into the stucco surface. Properly cured stucco is hard and unyielding, like pressing on concrete. If the stucco compresses, crumbles, or breaks away under firm thumb pressure, the material has been compromised by moisture exposure, improper original mix, or insufficient curing. Soft stucco cannot be patched, it must be removed and replaced with properly formulated and cured material.

Bulging or bowing sections. Stucco that bulges outward from the wall plane indicates that the stucco has delaminated from the substrate and may be pushing outward from water pressure, ice expansion, or structural movement behind it. Bulging stucco is at risk of sudden failure, large sections can fall off without warning, creating a safety hazard and exposing the wall cavity to weather. Bulging stucco should be assessed and repaired promptly rather than monitored.

Gaps at transitions. Check every location where stucco meets a different material, window and door frames, roof-to-wall intersections, deck ledger boards, utility penetrations, and the transition to a different siding material. Gaps, cracked sealant, or missing caulk at these transitions are the most common entry points for water behind stucco, because these joints experience the most movement and are often the last details finished (and the first to fail) during original construction.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does stucco last? Traditional three-coat stucco, properly applied over a sound substrate with an intact moisture barrier, can last 50 to 80 years or more. The stucco itself, portland cement, lime, and sand, is essentially artificial stone and does not deteriorate in the way that wood, vinyl, or even fiber cement siding does. What fails is the system around the stucco: the moisture barrier degrades, the lath rusts (especially if it was not galvanized or if dissimilar metals create galvanic corrosion), the caulk at transitions cracks and admits water, and the foundation settles and creates movement cracks. One-coat and EIFS systems have shorter expected lifespans, 20 to 40 years, and are more sensitive to installation quality and ongoing maintenance.

Can stucco be repaired, or does the whole wall need to be replaced? In most cases, stucco can be repaired in sections without replacing the entire wall. The key question is whether the damage is limited to the stucco itself (cracks, chips, delamination) or whether it has extended to the substrate behind the stucco (rotted sheathing, damaged framing, failed moisture barrier). If the substrate is sound, only the damaged stucco section needs to be removed and replaced. If the substrate is damaged, the repair scope expands to include substrate repair, but this still typically involves only the affected section, not the entire wall. Whole-wall replacement is necessary only when the stucco system has failed broadly due to systemic problems (wrong mix, no moisture barrier, structural deficiency) that affect the entire wall rather than localized areas.

Will a stucco patch match the rest of the wall? Achieving an invisible repair is the most challenging aspect of stucco work. Texture matching, replicating the exact surface pattern of the surrounding stucco, requires skill and experience but is achievable by an experienced stucco mason for all common textures. Color matching is more difficult because new stucco is lighter and cleaner than weathered stucco, and integrally colored stucco fades and shifts tone over years of UV exposure. Professional stucco contractors address this by custom-tinting the patch mix, applying a tinted sealer, or recommending a full-wall repaint after the repair has cured. For front facades and highly visible walls, a repaint is the most reliable path to a seamless appearance.

Is EIFS the same as stucco? EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System) looks like stucco from the outside but is a fundamentally different system. Traditional stucco is a thick (7/8-inch), heavy, cement-based cladding applied over metal lath. EIFS is a thin (approximately 1/8-inch) acrylic finish coat applied over fiberglass mesh, which is bonded to a layer of rigid foam insulation board attached to the sheathing. EIFS is lighter, provides insulation, and is more flexible than traditional stucco, but it requires different repair materials, different techniques, and a different understanding of moisture management. A repair contractor must correctly identify whether your home has traditional stucco or EIFS before beginning any work, because using stucco repair materials and techniques on an EIFS system (or vice versa) will result in a failed repair.

Does stucco need to be sealed or painted? Traditional stucco is naturally somewhat water-resistant due to its cement content, but it is not waterproof, it absorbs and releases moisture through its pore structure. Applying a breathable elastomeric coating or siloxane-based sealer protects the stucco surface from direct water absorption while allowing vapor to pass through from the inside, preventing moisture from being trapped in the wall cavity. In Southern Maryland's high-humidity, high-rainfall climate, sealing or painting stucco with a quality elastomeric exterior paint every 8 to 12 years is good practice that extends the life of the stucco, reduces cracking, and improves the performance of the moisture management system behind it.

When is it too cold to repair stucco? Stucco products, both traditional cement-based and acrylic-modified, require application and initial curing temperatures above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. More importantly, the stucco must not freeze during the first 48 to 72 hours after application, while it is gaining its initial strength through the chemical hydration process. Freezing during this critical curing period permanently damages the stucco, the ice formation disrupts the crystal structure of the hardening cement, resulting in a weak, crumbly material that will fail prematurely. In Southern Maryland, the reliable stucco repair season runs from March through mid-November. Repairs scheduled in late October should be completed by the first week of November to allow a comfortable margin before overnight temperatures begin consistently approaching the freezing mark.

Do I need a permit for stucco repair? In Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County, cosmetic stucco repair (patching cracks, replacing small sections, applying sealers or coatings) generally does not require a building permit. However, if the repair involves structural work, replacing sheathing, repairing framing members, or altering the building envelope, a permit may be required depending on the scope. EIFS removal and replacement with a different cladding system typically requires a permit because it involves changes to the building envelope assembly. Check with your county's building permit office if the repair scope includes any structural or envelope modification.

Need stucco repair before winter? Gray & Sons Contracting provides professional stucco repair and restoration throughout Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County, from hairline crack sealing on ranchers in Waldorf, La Plata, and Lexington Park to section replacement on colonials and Cape Cods in Prince Frederick, Leonardtown, and Huntingtown, to salt-air-rated waterfront stucco repair in Solomons, Lusby, Dunkirk, Chesapeake Beach, and North Beach, to EIFS inspection and repair on homes in California (MD), Mechanicsville, Charlotte Hall, Hollywood, Chaptico, Avenue, Indian Head, Bryans Road, Hughesville, St. Inigoes, Ridge, and Scotland. Most patch and crack repairs are completed in one to three visits with minimal disruption to your daily routine, no mess on your landscaping, no damage to your windows or trim, and the confidence that every repair addresses the root cause of the damage, not just the visible surface. We handle the complete process, assessment, moisture investigation when warranted, old stucco removal, substrate repair, new lath and multi-coat application, texture and color matching, and final sealing, with honest pricing and the expertise to know when a $400 crack repair is all you need and when a deeper problem requires a more comprehensive approach. Get a Free Estimate