Driveway Sealing & Sealcoating Cost in Southern Maryland: 2026 Price Guide

By Gray & Sons Contracting · October 22, 2026

Driveway sealing in Southern Maryland costs $250 to $867 for a standard residential asphalt driveway in 2026, with the national average for a professional sealcoating job landing around $500 to $575. The full range runs from $150 to $250 for a small single-car driveway where the surface is in good condition, requires minimal prep, and takes one coat of coal-tar or asphalt-emulsion sealer applied in under two hours, up to $1,200 or more for a large, heavily cracked driveway that needs pressure washing, extensive crack filling, oil-spot priming, two coats of premium latex-acrylic sealer, and a full day of labor. At the low end, sealing a 200-square-foot single-car driveway with a single coat of asphalt-emulsion sealer, cleaning the surface with a leaf blower and stiff broom, filling one or two hairline cracks with pourable crack filler, and rolling on sealer, costs $150 to $275 in materials and labor, with the crew spending one to two hours on site. At the high end, a 1,000-square-foot driveway with alligator cracking, oil stains, grass growing through joints, and a weathered surface that hasn't been sealed in eight or more years, requiring pressure washing, weed removal, crack routing and filling, oil-spot priming, two coats of latex-acrylic sealer with sand additive for traction, and edge detailing around landscaping beds and walkways, can push the total to $900 to $1,350 with a full day of work.

Late October is the last realistic window for driveway sealcoating in Southern Maryland. Asphalt sealer requires ambient temperatures of 50°F or higher for at least 24 hours after application, and ideally 48 hours, to cure properly. Once November arrives in the Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County area, overnight temperatures regularly drop into the upper 30s and low 40s, creating a daily gamble where a warm afternoon looks promising but a cold overnight can ruin a fresh seal before it fully cures. A sealer that doesn't cure completely remains soft, tacky, and porous, defeating the entire purpose of the application and requiring the homeowner to reseal the following spring, doubling the cost. Right now, late October still offers daytime highs in the mid-60s to low 70s and overnight lows in the upper 40s to mid-50s, tight but workable, especially for morning applications that get a full day of warm sunshine before the temperature drops. Waiting even two more weeks pushes the project into November's unpredictable swing weather, where a sudden cold front can drop temperatures 20 degrees overnight. If your driveway needs sealing, this week and next week are the window, after that, you're waiting until April.

This guide covers the complete cost picture for driveway sealing and sealcoating in Southern Maryland: pricing by sealer type and driveway size, equipment versus installed cost analysis, regional factors specific to the tri-county area, DIY versus professional application, real-world project scenarios with itemized costs, signs your driveway needs sealing, and the questions we hear most from homeowners across Waldorf, Prince Frederick, Leonardtown, and the surrounding communities.

Understanding Sealer Types

The type of sealer determines both the material cost and the performance characteristics, how long the seal lasts, how it handles UV exposure and freeze-thaw cycles, how quickly it dries, and whether it's appropriate for the specific conditions on your driveway. Choosing the wrong sealer is the most common mistake in driveway maintenance, and it's one that costs you either in premature failure (resealing every one to two years instead of every three to five) or in overspending on a premium product where a standard one would have performed identically.

Sealer Type Comparison

Key Differences Between Sealer Types

Coal-tar emulsion has been the industry standard for decades and offers the best UV protection and chemical resistance, it won't soften or dissolve when gasoline, oil, or antifreeze drips on the surface, which is a real advantage for driveways where vehicles park daily. However, coal-tar products have come under environmental scrutiny due to PAH (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon) runoff concerns, and some jurisdictions have restricted or banned their use near waterways. In Southern Maryland, where many properties are near the Chesapeake Bay, tributaries, or tidal wetlands, coal-tar sealer is still legal but increasingly replaced by asphalt-emulsion and acrylic alternatives that don't carry the same environmental risk.

Asphalt emulsion is the most commonly used sealer in the tri-county area, it's affordable, widely available at every hardware store and home center, easy to apply, and performs well for two to four years between applications. It doesn't have coal-tar's chemical resistance, so gasoline and oil spills will soften the seal if not cleaned quickly, but for most residential driveways where spills are occasional and quickly addressed, it's the practical sweet spot of cost and performance.

Latex acrylic is the premium residential choice. It costs roughly twice as much per square foot as asphalt emulsion, but it lasts two to three times as long, five to ten years between applications versus two to four, making it the better lifetime value for homeowners who plan to stay in the home long-term. Latex acrylic also dries faster (four to eight hours versus 24 to 36), which matters enormously in late October when you want the seal fully cured before overnight temperatures drop. The fast dry time makes latex acrylic the best choice for late-season sealcoating in Southern Maryland.

Eco-friendly and bio-based sealers are the right choice for properties near the Chesapeake Bay, on well water, or adjacent to wetlands, situations common throughout St. Mary's County, lower Calvert County, and the waterfront communities of Solomons, Lusby, Chesapeake Beach, and North Beach. They cost more per square foot but eliminate the environmental concerns associated with petroleum-based products. Performance is comparable to asphalt emulsion, three to five years of protection, with the tradeoff being slightly less chemical resistance and a higher material cost.

Cost by Driveway Size

Driveway size is the single biggest cost driver. Professional sealcoating companies typically price by the square foot, with a minimum job charge that applies to small driveways. The per-square-foot rate decreases slightly on larger driveways because the fixed costs of mobilization, setup, and cleanup are spread over more area.

Minimum job charges are standard in the industry. Most professional sealcoating contractors in the tri-county area have a minimum charge of $200 to $350, which covers mobilization (driving the truck with the sealcoating tank or barrel to the job site), setup (taping off edges, protecting landscaping, blocking the driveway entrance), cleanup, and the basic labor of applying sealer to a small area. This minimum means that very small driveways, under 200 square feet, cost the same as a 250-square-foot driveway because the fixed costs dominate.

Equipment vs. Installed Cost Breakdown

Here is a detailed breakdown of every cost component in a professional driveway sealcoating project.

Labor: 60% to 75% of Total Project Cost

Driveway sealcoating is a labor-intensive project. Unlike garage door opener installation (where the equipment represents a significant portion of the cost), sealcoating materials are relatively inexpensive, a 5-gallon bucket of asphalt-emulsion sealer costs $85 to $100 and covers 400 to 500 square feet. The real cost is in the preparation and application labor: cleaning the surface thoroughly (pressure washing, sweeping, removing vegetation), repairing cracks and potholes, protecting adjacent surfaces with tape and barriers, applying the sealer evenly with a squeegee or spray system, detailing edges with a brush, and managing the drying and curing process. For a standard two-car driveway, labor accounts for 60 to 75 percent of the total project cost, higher than the average home improvement project because the material-to-labor ratio is so heavily weighted toward time rather than product.

Regional Factors for Southern Maryland

Several factors specific to the Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County area affect driveway sealcoating timing, material selection, and the urgency of maintaining a properly sealed surface.

Freeze-Thaw Cycles

Southern Maryland experiences 40 to 60 freeze-thaw cycles per winter, days when the temperature drops below 32°F overnight and rises above 32°F during the day. Each freeze-thaw cycle drives water that has seeped into cracks and pores to expand (water expands approximately 9 percent when it freezes), widening existing cracks and creating new ones. An unsealed driveway absorbs water like a sponge, the porous surface of aged asphalt allows moisture to penetrate well below the surface, where freeze-thaw action does the most damage. A properly sealed driveway sheds water on the surface rather than absorbing it, reducing freeze-thaw penetration by 80 to 90 percent and dramatically slowing the crack-and-crumble cycle that destroys asphalt driveways in the mid-Atlantic climate. The tri-county area's position, cold enough to freeze regularly but warm enough to thaw almost daily from December through March, creates the worst-case scenario for unsealed asphalt. Regions that stay frozen all winter (northern New England) or rarely freeze (the Deep South) don't experience the same repetitive expansion-contraction stress. Southern Maryland's climate is specifically destructive to unprotected asphalt.

Chesapeake Bay Humidity and UV Exposure

The combination of high humidity and intense UV exposure accelerates asphalt oxidation, the chemical process that turns flexible, dark-black asphalt into brittle, gray, crumbling pavement. Southern Maryland's average relative humidity of 70 to 85 percent from June through September, combined with strong summer sun and reflective heat off the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries, creates an oxidation environment that ages asphalt roughly 20 to 30 percent faster than the national average. A new asphalt driveway in Waldorf or Prince Frederick that would last five to seven years before needing its first seal in a dry, moderate climate needs sealing within three to four years in the tri-county area. Once sealed, the sealer itself degrades faster in this environment, expect two to three years of protection from asphalt-emulsion sealer in Southern Maryland versus three to four years in a less humid climate. This accelerated degradation cycle is why the recommended resealing interval for the tri-county area is every two to three years for standard sealers and every four to six years for premium latex-acrylic sealers.

Salt and Deicing Chemical Exposure

While Southern Maryland doesn't experience the heavy road-salt application common in northern states, the tri-county area does see regular salt and calcium-chloride treatment on state roads and subdivision streets during winter weather events. Route 4 through Calvert County, Route 5 through St. Mary's County, Route 301 and Route 228 through Charles County, the major commuter corridors, receive heavy salt application during every snow and ice event. That salt gets tracked onto residential driveways by every vehicle that pulls in after driving on treated roads. Salt accelerates asphalt deterioration by drawing moisture into the pavement surface (salt is hygroscopic, it attracts and holds water), increasing the amount of water available for freeze-thaw damage, and chemically attacking the binder that holds the asphalt aggregate together. A sealed driveway resists salt penetration; an unsealed one absorbs the salt-laden water and suffers accelerated breakdown from the inside out.

Long Rural Driveways

The tri-county area includes a significant number of properties with long asphalt driveways, 100 to 300 feet or more from the road to the house, particularly in the rural communities of Mechanicsville, Charlotte Hall, Hollywood, Avenue, Nanjemoy, Chaptico, Ridge, and the agricultural areas of upper St. Mary's and lower Charles County. These long driveways represent 800 to 2,500+ square feet of asphalt, substantially more than the 400-to-600-square-foot suburban driveways common in Waldorf, La Plata, and Dunkirk, and the sealcoating cost scales proportionally. A 2,000-square-foot rural driveway at $1.25 to $1.50 per square foot runs $2,500 to $3,000 for professional sealcoating, a significant investment that many homeowners defer, leading to severe deterioration that eventually requires full resurfacing ($4,000 to $8,000) or replacement ($8,000 to $15,000+) rather than the maintenance-level cost of periodic sealing. The economics are clear: spending $500 to $700 every three years to seal a long driveway prevents the $10,000+ cost of replacement that comes from a decade of neglect.

Waterfront and Environmental Considerations

Southern Maryland's extensive waterfront, the Chesapeake Bay shoreline running through Calvert County, the Patuxent River separating Calvert and St. Mary's, the Potomac River bordering Charles County, and hundreds of creeks, coves, and tidal wetlands throughout all three counties, creates environmental sensitivity around driveway sealcoating products. Properties within the Chesapeake Bay Critical Area (generally within 1,000 feet of tidal waters or tidal wetlands) should use eco-friendly, bio-based sealers rather than coal-tar or petroleum-based products to minimize PAH runoff into the Bay watershed. This applies to waterfront communities throughout Solomons, Lusby, Chesapeake Beach, North Beach, Drum Point, St. Inigoes, Scotland, Ridge, Piney Point, and the Potomac River communities of Indian Head, Nanjemoy, and Cobb Island. The eco-friendly sealer premium of $0.15 to $0.28 per square foot over standard asphalt emulsion adds $75 to $170 to a typical driveway project, a modest cost for environmental responsibility in the Bay watershed.

DIY vs. Professional Driveway Sealcoating

Driveway sealcoating is one of the more DIY-accessible home maintenance projects, the materials are readily available, the application technique is straightforward, and the tools are simple. However, the difference between a professional result that lasts three to five years and a DIY result that peels, streaks, or fails within one to two years almost always comes down to surface preparation, the step that DIYers most commonly shortchange.

When DIY Is a Reasonable Option

DIY cost for a standard two-car driveway (500 sq ft):

A DIY sealcoating job saves approximately $200 to $400 compared to professional application on the same driveway, roughly 40 to 55 percent of the professional cost. The savings come entirely from eliminated labor; the material cost is the same or slightly higher for DIY (professionals buy sealer in 55-gallon drums at a lower per-gallon cost than retail 5-gallon buckets).

When Professional Application Is the Clear Choice

Professional application at $425 to $700 for a standard two-car driveway delivers thorough surface preparation (pressure washing at 3,000+ PSI, crack filling with hot-pour or cold-pour filler, oil-spot priming, edge trimming, vegetation removal), proper material selection (the right sealer type and application rate for the specific surface condition), consistent application (uniform thickness without puddles, thin spots, or lap marks), edge detailing (clean lines along garage apron, walkways, landscaping beds, and curbing), and professional timing judgment (reading weather conditions, temperature, and humidity to optimize curing). The professional also identifies problems that a homeowner might miss, base failure, subgrade drainage issues, root heaving, or structural cracks that indicate a problem sealing alone can't fix, and can recommend the appropriate repair before sealing rather than sealing over a problem that will return.

Sample Project Scenarios

These scenarios represent common driveway sealcoating projects in the tri-county area. All costs reflect 2026 pricing for materials and professional application.

Scenario 1: Small Single-Car Driveway in Leonardtown, $285

A homeowner in Leonardtown has a 240-square-foot single-car asphalt driveway that was last sealed three years ago. The surface is in good condition, slightly faded from gray-black to charcoal gray, with two hairline cracks near the garage apron and no oil stains. The homeowner wants a standard reseal before winter to maintain the protective coating and restore the dark-black appearance.

The crew completes the project in approximately 90 minutes including setup and cleanup. The minimum job charge applies because the small driveway size would otherwise produce a total below the contractor's $285 floor. The homeowner is advised to stay off the driveway for 24 hours and keep vehicles off for 48 hours to allow full curing. The fresh seal restores the rich black color and provides an estimated two to three years of protection before the next application.

Scenario 2: Standard Two-Car Driveway in Waldorf, $525

A homeowner in a 2008-built colonial in Waldorf has a 520-square-foot two-car asphalt driveway that was last sealed four years ago. The surface shows moderate oxidation (faded to medium gray), six to eight cracks ranging from hairline to 1/4 inch wide, mostly along the edges and in the center seam, and two small oil drip stains near the garage. The homeowner wants a thorough seal job with proper crack repair and a clean, professional finish.

The project takes approximately three hours. The pressure washing step is critical, four years of accumulated dirt, mold, algae, and oxidation residue must be removed completely for the sealer to bond properly to the underlying asphalt. The oil-spot primer (a specialized product that blocks oil migration through the sealer) is applied to the two stains and allowed to dry before the sealer goes on; without it, the oil would bleed through the sealer within weeks, creating soft, sticky spots. The finished driveway looks nearly new, uniform dark black with clean edges and invisible crack repairs.

Scenario 3: Large Two-Car Driveway with Extensive Cracks in Prince Frederick, $1,090

A homeowner in a 1990s-era ranch in Prince Frederick has a 750-square-foot two-car driveway that has been neglected for six or seven years, the last seal has completely worn away, and the surface is heavily oxidized to a pale gray with visible aggregate (individual stones showing through the worn binder). There are 15 to 20 cracks ranging from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch wide, a network of alligator cracking in the tire-track area near the street (about 40 square feet), two potholes the size of softballs, and grass growing through several cracks. The homeowner debated resurfacing but wants to try a thorough seal job first to extend the driveway's life by three to five more years.

The project takes approximately five to six hours, including the four-hour wait between coats. The contractor recommends latex-acrylic sealer over standard asphalt emulsion for this project because the heavily oxidized surface benefits from the acrylic's superior bonding and flexibility, and the longer life (five to seven years) justifies the premium on a driveway that clearly doesn't get sealed often. The two-coat application provides maximum protection and a rich, uniform finish that masks the patchwork of repairs underneath. The homeowner is given a realistic assessment: this seal job will extend the driveway's life by three to five years, but the underlying asphalt is approaching end of life (25+ years old) and will eventually need resurfacing regardless of maintenance.

Scenario 4: Long Rural Driveway in Mechanicsville, $1,450

A homeowner in Mechanicsville has a 1,400-square-foot asphalt driveway, approximately 175 feet long and 8 feet wide, running from the county road to the house through a wooded lot. The driveway was sealed three years ago but has deteriorated faster than expected due to tree root pressure, heavy shade (slowing drying and promoting mold/algae growth), and regular heavy-truck traffic from the homeowner's landscaping trailer. The surface shows moderate oxidation, extensive mold and algae growth (green-black staining across 40 percent of the surface), 10 to 12 cracks from 1/8 to 3/8 inch, two areas of root heaving where the asphalt has lifted and cracked over shallow tree roots, and wear marks from the trailer tires at the turnaround area.

The project takes approximately six hours with a two-person crew and a truck-mounted spray rig (hand-squeegeeing 1,400 square feet is not practical, the spray system applies sealer in a fraction of the time with more consistent coverage). The mold and algae pre-treatment is essential, pressure washing alone removes the surface growth but doesn't kill the spores, which regrow within weeks under the shaded conditions. The sodium hypochlorite treatment kills the organic growth at the root, and the sealer then provides a less hospitable surface for regrowth. Sand additive in the sealer mix adds slip resistance on the shaded sections that stay damp longer, an important safety feature on a driveway that gets morning frost in shade while the sun is hitting the road. The rural-location mobilization premium reflects the additional drive time to reach the property.

Signs Your Driveway Needs Sealing

Knowing when your asphalt driveway needs sealing, versus when it can wait another season, starts with recognizing the visual and physical indicators that the existing seal has worn away and the underlying asphalt is exposed to damage.

The color has faded from black to gray. Fresh asphalt and freshly sealed asphalt are deep, rich black. As the seal wears away, the surface oxidizes, the petroleum binders that hold the aggregate together break down under UV exposure, and the color gradually shifts from black to charcoal to medium gray to pale gray. The color change is gradual and easy to miss when you see the driveway every day, but comparison to a freshly sealed neighbor's driveway makes the difference obvious. Medium gray is the signal that the seal has worn thin; pale gray means the seal is gone and the asphalt is fully exposed to UV, water, and chemical damage.

Individual aggregate stones are visible on the surface. When you can see and feel the individual stones in the asphalt mix, the surface feels rough and gritty rather than smooth, the binder has eroded to the point where the aggregate is exposed. This is beyond cosmetic concern: exposed aggregate means water is penetrating the full depth of the asphalt surface, freeze-thaw damage is occurring throughout the pavement structure, and the surface will begin to crumble and shed loose stones (raveling) within one to two years if not sealed.

Cracks are appearing or widening. New cracks in a previously crack-free surface, or existing cracks that have visibly widened since the last seal, indicate that the protective seal has failed and thermal cycling (expansion and contraction from daily temperature changes) is stressing the unprotected asphalt. Small cracks, hairline to 1/4 inch, are normal aging and are easily filled during a seal job. Cracks wider than 1/2 inch, or networks of interconnected cracks (alligator cracking), may indicate structural issues that need assessment before sealing.

Water sits on the surface rather than beading and running off. A properly sealed driveway repels water, rain beads on the surface and runs off to the edges. When the seal has worn away, water soaks into the porous asphalt surface rather than running off. You can test this easily: pour a cup of water on the driveway surface. If it beads and sits on top, the seal is still working. If it darkens the asphalt and soaks in within 30 seconds, the seal has failed and the surface is absorbing moisture, a direct path to freeze-thaw damage.

It's been three or more years since the last seal. Even if the surface looks acceptable, the protective properties of most sealers diminish significantly after two to three years in Southern Maryland's humid, UV-intense climate. A driveway that was sealed three years ago may still look dark and smooth but may have lost much of its water-repellency and chemical resistance. Regular maintenance sealing every two to three years, before visible deterioration appears, is far less expensive than reactive sealing after the surface has already oxidized and cracked.

Oil stains have penetrated the surface. If engine oil, transmission fluid, or other petroleum products have dripped onto an unsealed or poorly sealed surface and created dark, soft spots that don't clean away with detergent and pressure washing, the petroleum has penetrated the asphalt binder and is dissolving it from within. These spots will continue to soften and expand if left untreated. Professional sealcoating with oil-spot primer treatment stops the progression and seals the surface against future penetration.

The edges are crumbling. Driveway edges, where the asphalt meets grass, gravel, or soil, are the most vulnerable to deterioration because they lack the structural support of adjacent pavement and are exposed to moisture from three sides rather than just the top. Crumbling edges indicate that the asphalt is beyond simple sealing and may need edge repair (adding and compacting new asphalt along the edges) before sealing. If only the edges are deteriorating and the center is sound, edge repair plus full-surface sealing ($100 to $300 for edge work, added to the sealing cost) can extend the driveway's life significantly.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does driveway sealcoating take? A standard two-car driveway (400 to 600 square feet) takes two to four hours for professional sealcoating, including surface preparation, crack filling, sealer application, and cleanup. Add two to three hours if two coats are applied (the first coat needs four to eight hours to dry before the second coat, depending on sealer type, so two-coat jobs are usually started early in the morning). Large driveways (1,000+ square feet) take four to six hours for a single coat. The driveway is ready for foot traffic in 12 to 24 hours and vehicle traffic in 24 to 48 hours, depending on temperature and humidity.

How often should I seal my driveway in Southern Maryland? Every two to three years with standard asphalt-emulsion sealer, or every four to six years with premium latex-acrylic sealer. Southern Maryland's combination of high humidity, intense UV, freeze-thaw cycling, and salt exposure degrades sealer faster than the national average. A common mistake is waiting until the driveway looks bad before resealing, by that point, the asphalt has already sustained damage that the new seal can cover but not reverse. Maintenance sealing on a regular schedule prevents the damage from occurring in the first place.

Can I seal a concrete driveway? This guide specifically addresses asphalt (blacktop) driveway sealing. Concrete driveways use a completely different type of sealer, a clear or tinted concrete sealer rather than the black asphalt sealers discussed here. Concrete sealing is less common (concrete is inherently more durable than asphalt) and costs $1.50 to $3.00 per square foot, roughly double the cost of asphalt sealcoating. If you have a concrete driveway and are interested in sealing, ask your contractor about concrete-specific sealers.

What temperature does it need to be for sealcoating? The ambient temperature must be 50°F or higher at the time of application, and must stay above 50°F for at least 24 hours after application, ideally 48 hours. The surface temperature of the driveway should also be above 50°F. This is why late October is the absolute deadline for sealcoating in Southern Maryland, November's overnight lows regularly drop into the upper 30s and low 40s, creating a high risk of cure failure. Additionally, rain within 24 hours of application can wash away uncured sealer, so a dry forecast for at least 24 hours is essential. Professionals monitor both the weather forecast and the specific microclimate of the job site (shaded driveways stay cooler longer; south-facing driveways warm faster) to optimize application timing.

Is sealcoating worth the cost, or should I just let the driveway wear naturally? Sealcoating is one of the highest-return maintenance investments you can make on your property. An asphalt driveway costs $4,000 to $8,000 to install and has a lifespan of 20 to 30 years with regular sealing, or 10 to 15 years without it. Sealing every three years at $500 per application, $5,000 over 30 years, extends the driveway's life by 10 to 15 years compared to no maintenance. The alternative, replacing the driveway 10 to 15 years early at $6,000+, costs more than the entire lifetime of sealing. The math is unambiguous: regular sealcoating saves money.

Can I drive on the driveway the same day it's sealed? No. The sealer needs a minimum of 24 hours to cure before foot traffic and 48 hours before vehicle traffic. These times assume temperatures above 50°F and dry conditions. In cooler weather (50 to 60°F), extend the vehicle wait to 72 hours. In the late-October Southern Maryland window, it's safest to plan for 48 to 72 hours of no vehicle access. Arrange alternative parking before the project starts.

Should I get one coat or two coats? One coat is sufficient for a driveway that's been regularly maintained and sealed within the last three to four years. Two coats are recommended for driveways that haven't been sealed in five or more years, driveways with extensive oxidation or surface wear, and any driveway where maximum longevity is the priority. Two coats add 30 to 50 percent to the project cost but can extend the seal's life by 40 to 60 percent, making the per-year cost of protection roughly equal. On a neglected driveway, two coats are almost always the better investment.

What happens if it rains right after my driveway is sealed? If rain falls within four to eight hours of application (depending on sealer type), the uncured sealer can wash off, streak, or develop white haze marks. This usually requires reapplication of the affected areas at additional cost. If rain falls after eight to twelve hours, the sealer is typically cured enough to resist light rain, though heavy rain can still cause surface imperfections. After 24 hours in warm weather (above 60°F), the seal is rain-resistant. Professional contractors monitor the forecast carefully and will postpone application if rain is likely within 24 hours.

Ready to seal your driveway before winter? Gray & Sons Contracting provides professional driveway sealcoating and sealing throughout Calvert, St. Mary's, and Charles County, from small single-car driveways in Leonardtown, Lexington Park, and Great Mills to standard two-car driveways in Waldorf, La Plata, and Dunkirk, from long rural driveways in Mechanicsville, Charlotte Hall, Hollywood, and Nanjemoy to waterfront properties in Solomons, Lusby, Chesapeake Beach, North Beach, Drum Point, St. Inigoes, Ridge, and Cobb Island, and suburban driveways throughout Huntingtown, Owings, Prince Frederick, California (MD), Avenue, Indian Head, Bryans Road, Hughesville, Chaptico, Piney Point, and Scotland. Late October is the last window for sealcoating before winter, temperatures need to stay above 50°F for 48 hours after application, and that window closes fast as November approaches. We handle the complete job, pressure washing, crack filling, oil-spot treatment, professional sealer application, edge detailing, and cleanup, with honest pricing and the experience to get it right before the cold sets in. Most driveways are completed in one visit with a 24-to-48-hour cure time, and the protection lasts two to five years depending on the sealer selected. Get a Free Estimate